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Location: Elgin, Illinois, United States
Ships to: US,
Item: 232801399008

Condition:New: A brand-new, unused, unopened, undamaged item in its original packaging (where packaging is … Read moreabout the conditionNew: A brand-new, unused, unopened, undamaged item in its original packaging (where packaging is applicable). Packaging should be the same as what is found in a retail store, unless the item was packaged by the manufacturer in non-retail packaging, such as an unprinted box or plastic bag. See the seller’s listing for full details. See all condition definitionsopens in a new window or tab
Manufacturer Warranty:1 Year
Other Part Number:WA513004K
Bolt Pattern:5 x 100mm
OE/OEM Part Number:513004K, Direct OE Replacement
Wheel Stud Quantity:5
Performance Part:No
Anti-lock Braking System:No
Country/Region of Manufacture:China
Universal Fitment:No
Interchange Part Number:Oldsmobile Firenza, Hub Bearing, Wheel Bearing, Hub, Assembly, Fits, For, Replaces, Replacement, Bearing,
Placement on Vehicle:Front, Left, Right
Finish:Chrome, Polished
Manufacturer Part Number:513004K 1982 1983 1984
Approved Performance:Approved Performance
Type:Wheel Hub & Bearing Assembly
Items Included:Mount, Grease, Seal
Material:Alloy Steel, Carbon, Steel
Vintage Part:No
UPC:0705833110468

eBay Front Wheel – Hub Bearing Assembly Description ALL NEW Front Wheel – Hub Bearing Assembly *WE SHIP VIA FED EX MONDAY-FRIDAY (HOLIDAYS EXCLUDED) 99% OF THE ORDERS ARE SHIPPED WITHIN 1 BUSINESS DAY OF THE PAYMENT BEING RECEIVED. AGAIN WEEKENDS AND HOLIDAYS ARE EXCLUDED. ANY AND ALL ORDERS PLACED AND PAID FOR AFTER 1:00 PM FRIDAY WILL SHIP ON THE FOLLOWING BUSINESS DAY. ***1 Year Warranty *** You have purchased a premium quality product designed to replace your original equipment brakes. There is absolutely No modifications required to the product or your vehicle to install. The warranty covers cracking warping and manufactures defects, The Warranty is from the original date of purchase. It is a 1 time replacement and covers the product / products purchased only, it does not cover the cost of labor to remove or install any of the products. Warranty does not cover units that have been modified, abused, or are used for anything other than its intended use which is the same as its original equipment intentions. Warranty is VOID if used on vehicles for racing or off road use. Customer is responsible for freight charges to return the alleged defective product. FEATURES & BENEFITS: G3008 Castings Machined To OE Specifications And Designed To An Exact OE Fit. No Modifications Needed For Installation. ISO9001 TS16949 Certified Manufacturer FAQ Q: How quick can I get my order? A: Your order will ship the same day (Monday – Friday Excluding Holidays) if checkout is completed by 11 am CST. Orders placed after 11 am CST will ship the following business day providing checkout has been completed. inkfrogproseries Hub Bearing Installation Instructions Park the vehicle on a flat, level paved or concrete surface. Place the vehicle in gear or park and apply the parking brake, chock opposite wheel to prevent the vehicle from rolling. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel of the hub bearing you’re replacing with the breaking bar and a socket; do not remove them Only Loosen Lift the wheel with the floor jack in a safe and secure manner. Support the vehicle on a jack stand, preferably on the frame rail if present. Remove the lug nuts and wheel. Locate and remove the caliper bolts with ratchet and a socket. Remove caliper gently and support the caliper. Do not allow the caliper to dangle on the rubber brake hose. Locate the caliper bracket bolts (if applicable) and remove them with the ratchet and a socket. You may want to break them loose with the breaking bar first if they’re really tight. On some vehicles the brake pads will remain in the bridge and can be removed by prying out with the screwdriver. On other models, the pads stay intact and may be clipped to the caliper. If you have to remove the pads, do so by taking note how they were placed in the bridge and be sure you’re able to put them back in the same manner they were extracted. Remove the rotor. If it is stuck to the hub, you may have to hit it between the studs with a large rubber mallet. Use a rubber mallet if you’re not going to replace the rotor, so you don’t damage the surface. Remove any ABS wires attached to the hub bearing assembly (if applicable) or unclip the wire and trace it to the plug. In many applications, if the ABS wire is integrated with the wheel-bearing hub assembly, a new one will come with it. If you’re not sure, check the box of the new bearing and if there’s an ABS wire, follow the wire until you locate the plug, unplug it and unclip it from its mounts. If ABS is present but not integrated with the bearing assembly, remove the sensor from the bearing with a ratchet and socket. Remove the spindle nut with the breaking bar and a spindle nut socket. Remove the washer behind the spindle nut. Locate the wheel-bearing assembly bolts behind the knuckle, (If Applicable see replacement unit for type of mounting) and loosen them with the breaking bar and socket. The location of these can sometimes create a tight area to place a socket and tool on to remove them with. You may have to apply some ingenuity. Replace the socket on the ratchet to extract the bolts quickly and easier. Most hubs have three or four bolts. Install the slide hammer onto the lug studs and secure with tightened lug nuts. This may take several attempts and a couple of breaks in between to remove the hub bearing from the knuckle. Pay close attention to your progress and try to determine when the bearing will separate. Take note of how the backing plate is installed between the knuckle and the bearing so you can replace it in the same manner. Note some models will slide off the spindle without the need of a slide hammer. Sand off the rust and corrosion around the knuckle with a fine- to medium-grade sandpaper. Move the drive-shaft spindle around to get it out of your way. Take your time when doing this and make sure it’s as clean as possible. Place the backing plate in its original position and place the new bearing onto the knuckle. Manipulate the drive-shaft spindle splines into the center of the hub bearing. Push the bearing on as far as you can, making sure to line it up correctly if ABS lines or plugs are present. Replace the wheel-bearing assembly bolts. They’re pretty long, so as soon as you can thread them into the new bearing, start to tighten them. Pull the bearing in by tightening the bolts a little bit at a time and then switching to the next bolt to make sure the bearing assembly does not shift in the knuckle and cause damage. Once the bearing is drawn in flush, use the breaking bar to get the bolts as tight as you can get them. Replace washer and spindle nut and tighten to proper torque specifications with the half-inch drive torque wrench and spindle socket. Do Not Over Tighten you could damage the new Hub Assembly. Replace the brakes in the same manner you extracted them. You may need to push the caliper piston in a bit with a C-clamp to get it over the rotor. (Note some rear calipers have a piston that screws in. DO NOT use a C Clamp on this type of caliper piston) Plug in the ABS lines or reattach them to the bearing, if applicable. Replace the tire and lug nuts, and tighten the lug nuts as tight as you can get them. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts in an alternate fashion with the torque wrench and socket at the correct wheel nut specifications torque setting. Pump the brake pedal if you had to push the caliper piston in with a C-clamp to restore hydraulic pressure to that caliper piston. Release the parking brake, remove chock and go for a test drive. inkfrog terapeak

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