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Seller Store synhouse
(2741) 96.2%,

Location: Los Angeles, California
Ships to: US,
Item: 156163819496

All returns accepted:ReturnsNotAccepted
Type:knob
MPN:Does Not Apply
Unbranded:Unbranded

Getting Parts for E-mu SP1200 Sampling Drum Machine Video will open in a new window Using the mobile app? Copy this link into your browser: Synhouse has customers in 42 countries. Synhouse ships to your country and has since before eBay existed. If you are looking at a small/normal item in the Synhouse eBay listings and seeing no shipping options to your area or seeing a notice that says the seller doesn’t ship to your address, this is incorrect. I’ve been shipping to Australia, England, etc. since 1990, five years before eBay even existed, and eBay has deleted ALL the shipping options and prices I’ve spent many hours setting up, in order to enable eBay International Shipping, and then tells people in the most commonly shipped to countries that shipping is not available there. This is fake and idiotic; eBay had already been shipping there with the eBay Global Shipping Program for a few years, now says they don’t with eBay International Shipping AND deleted my own shipping options without my permission or knowledge, when it could have and should have been left in place as an option because at least it WORKS and eBay doesn’t know what they are doing. This goes WAY back to 2017 with people in New Zealand (one of the most commonly shipped to Synhouse countries) telling me that I don’t ship there, and 1) multiple calls to eBay didn’t solve it, 2) they sometimes said they solved it but didn’t, and 3) said “Uhm, wait 24 hours and it will be working.”, which is how eBay gets you off the phone. And I could never get that New Zealand problem solved. The new problem since early 2023 is eBay deleting my own shipping options in order to put theirs in, then theirs tells people no, the seller doesn’t ship there, but I CAN manually set up a shipping method (usually with Synhouse it’s one price each for USA, Canada, Asia/Australia, and the rest of the world. Now I’m getting messages like these: 5/16/2023: Hi, Wondering how much shipping would be to Canada, postal code T2N 2P7. Thanks! Can you enable the ebay international shipping option for me? I am very interested. 1/1/2024: Hi there can you post to London uk and how much would postage be? Hi how much would postage be to London England Thanks for your reply. Im trying to check out but im get the message saying seller doesn’t ship to your address. Please advise as i really need the new faceplate. 1/30/2024: Hello synhouse, I have a T8 and would like to buy your Optical-Emitter-Set just to make sure to have it in the future. Is there a reason you don’t ship to Germany? If you see that any small/normal Synhouse item does not ship to you/your area, this is FAKE and wrong, please send an eBay message to tell me and I can manually enter shipping to your area AGAIN. Sorry for this incompetent platform I’ve been struggling with for 25 years now… ————————————————————————————- A full set of 3 new knobs to replace ALL the worn out, dingy-dirty, cap-missing knobs on an E-mu SP1200 (1987-1991 gray or 1993-1998 black reissue) or E-mu SP-12 (1985-1987) at once. The same knob can be used as a replacement for several machines. Count per machine: E-mu Drumulator: 2 pieces E-mu Emulator II: 2 pieces E-mu SP-12: 3 pieces E-mu SP1200 (1987-1991 gray): 3 pieces E-mu SP1200 (1993-1998 black reissue): 3 pieces If I overlooked one, please let me know. These are new, unused, never used, never on a machine. These are one-piece plastic push-on knobs, black with two white pointer lines. They have an absolutely perfect, very snug fit on the potentiometer shafts. Synhouse has the only existing stock of these knobs. No one else has these to sell. There are three problems commonly seen on thousands of machines out there: 1) The removable caps on top are turned around and don’t point straight. 2) The removable caps on top are missing. 3) The entire knob is missing! These replacement knobs solve all three problems. They replace missing hardware and the caps won’t go crooked or fall off because they can’t, the caps are one piece with the knob itself. ——————————————————————————- This listing has 12 photos: Photo #1: The three NEW replacement knobs for sale in this listing. Photo #2: A higher view of the three NEW replacement knobs for sale in this listing. Photo #3: The replacement knobs on an SP1200. Photo #4: The old knobs on the same SP1200. Go quickly back and forth between photos 3 and 4, it’s very hard to tell the difference which is which. Photo #5: A top view comparison of the old one and the new one. Photo #6: A lower view comparison of the old one and new one. Photo #7: Three old and three new replacement knobs intermingled in a single row. Photo #8: Reference photo of the most common type of old knob on an E-mu Drumulator. Photo #9: Reference photo of the most common type of old knob on an E-mu Emulator II. Photo #10: 1998 E-mu brochure showing the SP1200 with this most common type of knob. Photo #11: 1998 E-mu brochure showing the SP1200 with this most common type of knob, closeup view to see the knob type better. Photo #12: Demonstration photo of an SP-12 showing how to safely remove a knob from the potentiometer shaft with two butter knives ——————————————————————————— A word about the “original” SP knob that “came on the machine”: It should be noted that the supplier of the knobs on E-mu machines was changed a few times, and they might have even been going back and forth between various suppliers again and again. There is no “the” knob, there were multiple types used. A number of listings from other eBay sellers have misstated this (intentionally or otherwise). In my many, many repairs and restorations of these machines (and I also used them in recording sessions when I was a teenager in Hollywood in the 80s), I have seen at LEAST three different types of knobs on SPs, with two of those types being seen many, many times, though the casual observer might have assumed they were all the same type because they are very similar. Some were two-piece and some were three-piece. All that have been seen here had removable caps, and some have the lower skirt as a separate part as well. Using multi-part knobs wasn’t a very bright choice on their part, as it meant paying much higher prices for knobs that were worse for the end user. The whole point of removable skirts is to allow alternate skirts (clear numbered rings to crank it up to 11, pointers, etc.) and the whole point of removable caps is to allow different sections of a mixing console to be color coded (blue for effects sends, orange for EQ, etc.), and none of that was needed for the E-mu machines, meaning that a thousand and one SP users over 30+ years have had to deal with missing caps when the caps shouldn’t have been a separate part in the first place! The new one-piece replacement knobs for sale here look almost 100% exactly like the most common of the three types of knobs used on SPs (black removable cap with white line, black one-piece knob body and shirt w/short white line on edge of skirt), this type has been seen both on the very oldest SP12s (from 1985, as well as on Emulator IIs from a year before that, also on Drumulators well more than two years before that) and on some of the very latest 1998 black SP1200 reissues (and you can see this in two views in the scan of the 1998 E-mu brochure shown in the photos of this listing), with the other types used variously along the way, but not as often. I haven’t worked with nearly as many SP-12s as SP1200s, but as far as I can recall at this time, every SP-12 I have ever seen had this most common knob type on it (Emulator IIs and Drumulators as well). ——————————————————————————- Replacement tips and techniques from my decades of working with these: Do not use lube to put knobs on. They are supposed to be tight and locked in place. Just follow the instructions below. Depending on the state of your old knobs, these might be just as tight as they are, or even tighter. The old ones are frequently lost, as they sometimes aren’t tight enough. To remove your old knobs or to remove these after trying them on, you should try a special technique of mine to avoid damaging anything. Use two butter knives as completely flat pry bars that will NOT mark the bottom of the knob or the front panel label. Put the knives on opposite sides of the knob (you can see this in one of the photos of this listing showing an SP-12), slip them under the knob with the back of the blade toward the potentiometer shaft, then pull up on the knife handles a bit to make the knob slide up. Don’t do it all at once, give it a few blips of pressure to loosen it, and it will come right up every time, with no damage and no chance of shooting the knob 30 feet across the room. If the knobs are for some reason too close to the panel to allow the knives to slip under the edges, then press down on the panel to make the plastic bow downward. (more important) To push the knobs onto the potentiometer shafts, DO NOT do it from outside the machine. There is little chance of breaking the PCB, but a good chance of breaking the plastic chassis. Remove the plastic chassis top as described in the service manual and hold it up on edge. This way, you can push on the back side of the potentiometer as you force the knob down onto the pot shaft. This way, it puts no pressure on the front panel PCB and more critically, no pressure on the plastic chassis. The 12 screws go into the chassis and require a lot of precision, but there is little precision in the chassis (which can warp and was really a little warped from the beginning) or the front panel PCB (made of FR4, which like anything made of liquid resin-based fiberglass, shrinks over time, notice the pits low on the body under the paint of 1984 Corvettes already by 1989, they didn’t have those in 1983 because they didn’t have years of shrinkage yet), the screws have little more than 0.2 millimeters of space around them and the holes are always a little off, not to mention that the threaded holes aren’t 100% straight perpendicular to the surface (put a 2″ screw in there and see that it leans over in a little different direction on each one). The point is, it is VERY easy to break that screw mounting out of that crappy chalky plastic (note the ground-off or chipped-off lower corners on half the machines out there, the material is crap). When people pound on the drum trigger buttons, it often breaks off one or more of the screw mounts on the lower edge of the front panel PCB so the drum trigger buttons push down, that’s how weak they are. So don’t put fifty pounds of deadlift pressure on the shaft (and hence the plastic) when pushing the knobs on, be sure to support it with your other hand on the other side at the same time. I’ll offer some more of my 80s drum machine parts this year, some NOS, some used, including some very rare and never before sold items (wiring, boards, chassis parts, maybe some switches, etc.). There is a minimum shipping price for all of my small components and a different minimum for a very low value item or for something $50 or more. However, I can ship almost any number of parts for the international shipping that it shows for most of those items. So if you want, for example, an SP1200 overlay and some knobs and some switches, or knobs and switches and potentiometers or whatever, just let me know IN ADVANCE and I will set up a special listing for you so that you will only pay the shipping once. This is if you tell me IN ADVANCE, not if you ask for it later because any shipping money paid has already been docked 12.55% (15% international) by eBay and that money is not coming back. Yes, eBay takes 12.55% of the stated shipping charge (taking shipping money since 2011), and is also taking 12.55% (15% international) the item price and even for the sales tax charged (which I never receive, so an item sent locally to Burbank with 10.25% sales tax is charged 12.55% on the tax so that is essentially another 1.3% of fees on the item price). So let me know in advance and I can set it up so that you can save a lot of money by buying and shipping the parts together. I can also set up special listings for different quantities of items sometimes. Usually the price is the same per item but I can set it up and that saves a lot of money on shipping.

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